SweaterBabe.com's Knitting and Crochet Patterns Blog

Super Cute Stitch Markers!

I've always used plain plastic stitch markers.  For a while, I would even just take a piece of mercerized cotton yarn, tie it into a little slip knot, trim the ends, and use it as a stitch marker.

But now, I am pickier. And there are so many options to choose from!  Why not accessorize my knitting?

I just tried out these cuties from Designs by Tami.  They look adorable on her etsy site and are so sweet in person!

Each stitch marker is a silver ring with a little handmade charm attached.  I have samples of the Sheep (my personal fave as a wool-lover!) and the cupcakes.  Really nicely made with lots of attention to detail.  The cupcakes have swirled icing, little sprinkles, and even a red dollap of icing at the top!

The sheep have lots of detailing too, including little flowers in their "hair" and some even have eyelashes (the ones adorning the knitting needles are a male/female pair)!

They do work well too.  The weight of the little charms actually helps them NOT fling off my needles (like those basic plastic ones sometimes can) if I'm knitting fast.  No more looking all over the floor for a lost stitch marker (and horrible choking hazard in my household of kids!). 

 

And the ring itself is not too thick, so it does not get in the way.  It's also smooth silver, unlike my cheap plastic markers that seem to scratch me if my fingers graze them.

Plus, they are big enough to fit up to a size 13 needle, which is nice given how many projects I do on the bigger needles.

And let's face it - stitch markers don't need to be much more than little rings.  So you might as well use fun ones that make you smile!

Minor downsides: 1) They come 3 to a set, so if you are in need of a lot of stitch markers, you'll have to buy several sets and 2) They are not "split ring" types that can ALSO double as markers that you use for previous rows or for when you need to sew on a patch pocket (for instance).  However, these downsides are very minor.  I look forward to using these a lot for most of my projects!

Designs by Tami stitch markers can be found at: DesignsbyTami.etsy.com.  She also adorns bamboo crochet hooks and knitting needles with the same designs.  So adorable and perfect for gift-giving!  Check out her site, she has LOTS of other fun designs, including jewelry and hair accessories!

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[K1, yo] 3 times, k1 - all in same stitch?!

Hello Sweaterbabe,

I have been knitting for years but never come across this knitting direction before.

Could you please explain how to to do "k1yo, k1yo, k1yo, k1, all in same stitch". This has got me stumped!!

Thanks in anticipation, Wendy.

Dear Wendy,

Yup - it's a tricky one!

This is how:

K1, but do NOT slip the st off of the left-hand needle,

yo,

now, K1 into the BACK of that same stitch (and still don't slip it off of the left-hand needle),

yo,

now, K1 into the FRONT of that same stitch (like you just did at the beginning of this!),

yo,

and lastly, K1 into the BACK of the same stitch,

let it slip off of your left-hand needle.

Whew!

The directions could have mentionned that you need to do the knitting into the front and back of the stitch (alternating) in order to fit all that in.  I think that would have been a helpful note!

Does it make sense now?  Must be a cool looking, textured stitch pattern!

-- SweaterBabe

Vine Lace Hat question

Dear SweaterBabe,

This question is regarding #78 two skein vine lace hat (a free pattern).

Please help! I am very frustrated trying to figure out the vine lace- I have knitted it and taken it out 5 times trying to get the math correct.

I am ready for row 10 which is row 2 of the vine lace pattern-

Row 10: K2, work row 2 of Vine Lace to last st, k1.

Row 2 (of Vine Lace): K3, *yo, k2, skp, k2tog, k2, yo, k1: rep from *, end k1.

I am ending up with extra stitches and not ending on a k1.

Pattern states Mult of 9 sts plus 4

Can you please tell me stitch by stitch how I should knit Row 10?

Thank you.

-- Gail

Hi Gail,

Ooh - didn't mean to make this pattern frustrate!

Let me see if this helps:

This is what the Lace Row is for your Row 10:

Row 2: K3, *yo, k2, skp, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; rep from *, end k1.

There are 70 sts total, but only the middle 67 are the Lace pattern, i.e. there are "7" repeats of the lace.

It can help to have 2 markers separate the Lace from the 2 edge sts at the beginning and 1 edge st at the end (of the Even Numbered Rows).

So, for Row 10: K2, slip marker (if using),

then the Lace part: K3,
*yo, k2, skp, k2tog, k2, yo, k1;
*yo, k2, skp, k2tog, k2, yo, k1;
*yo, k2, skp, k2tog, k2, yo, k1;
*yo, k2, skp, k2tog, k2, yo, k1;
*yo, k2, skp, k2tog, k2, yo, k1;
*yo, k2, skp, k2tog, k2, yo, k1;
*yo, k2, skp, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; k1.
Then, k1.

I would also suggest double checking the TOTAL number of sts you have. It will be 70 until you hit the shaping at the top of the hat. The lace does not mess up the stitch count. Does that help? Hope so!!

Best,

SweaterBabe

Right versus Left in a knitting (or crochet) pattern?

Dear SweaterBabe,

Hi I have a question about a knitting pattern for a baby hooded jacket.

The patteren gives instructions for a boy's left front and a girl's right front ect. but does that mean the actual front of the item as when it's worn or is it the front left that would be facing you if it were lying flat in front of you?

Thanks for any help.

Dear Knitter,

The standard convention (at least here in the U.S., and in the patterns I've done for Vogue and seen in magazines like Rowan and Rebecca) is to refer to the Right and Left AS WORN.  So, the Right Front is the Right Front of the sweater-wearer.

I think it is the convention that makes the most sense and you should find most all patterns follow it.

I can't vouch for all patterns, so it's a good idea to read ahead (like you do for recipes!) and just make sure things make sense, especially if there are differences between the left and front (e.g. buttonholes can be on the right vs. left depending on the gender you are knitting for!). 

I hope pattern writers are using the standard convention, but you never know!

-- SweaterBabe

Crochet in a ch-2 sp?

Hello SweaterBabe!

I have been a very basic crocheter for years & really want to start learning to do more stitches, etc. I'm trying to crochet a baby blanket right now via a pattern & am stuck on a row.

Could you please translate/interpret this row a little better?? Row 6: Ch3, turn; dc in next 6 dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, * dc in next dc, ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across to last 7 dc, dc in last 7 dc: 92 dc and 19 ch-2 sps.

What I don't understand is the "2 dc in next ch-2 sp" part. I would appreciate your help! Thanks much!

-- Monique

Dear Monique,

Ch-2 sp means chain-2 space OR the space/hole created by a chain-2 from the previous row.

All you need to do when you get to that part is to insert your crochet hook into the hole (vs. the top of a stitch) and work your dc.  Because it is a dc, you will need to yo (yarn over) before you stick your hook in. 

Does that make sense?  It's actually the beauty of crochet that you can stick your hook into any hole and work your dc or crochet stitch. 

For example, a hole can be:

- a hole punched in leather

- a big ch-5 hole

- a ring created by a ch-4 joined with a slip stitch, which is how granny squares and all sorts of crochet "motifs" are started

- the holes (stitches) at the edge of a knitted piece

These holes are usually referred to in crochet patterns as "ch-# sp" or "ch-# arches".

Hope that explains it for you!

-- SweaterBabe

Alex's Cables and Lace Kimono Wrap Cardigan

Alex D. of Tadcaster, North Yorkshire, UK knit the #69 Cables and Lace Kimono Wrap Cardigan using Manos del Uraguay Silk Blend Solid in a color called Indian.

 

She says, "The combination of cables and lace is easy to pick up without being boring.  Great that there are only two seams to sew up at the end too!"

 

The subtle color variations in the yarn give it such a pretty look!  This pattern really looks great on you!  Thanks, Alex!

Chloe's Lush & Lacy Cardigan

Chloe M. of Goleta, CA knit her gorgeous version of the #70 Lush and Lacy Cardigan using a little more than 5 skeins of Elsebeth Lavold Classic Al in Ecru.

Here's what she has to say about the pattern: "I loved this pattern; it was clearly written and had enough going on to keep my interest. Plus I learned how to make pockets!"

Thanks, Chloe, for the great photos!  The cardigan fits you well and the yarn you chose showcases the stitch and seaming details nicely, IMHO!

 

Help on Chic Cowl Neck Cables

Dear Knitters of the Chic Cabled Cowl Neck,

I've had a few emails where I've confused knitters on how the Cowl of this Cowl Neck is to be knit!  Sorry!  Here is an explanation that I emailed a knitter that helped to clarify the instructions.

It is actually a more complicated looking thing than it really is to knit!  I promise!

You basically have for each Round of the Cowl (assume size XS):

[p6] [Braided Cable A] [p6] [Braided Cable B] [p6] [Braided Cable A] [p6] [Braided Cable B] [p6] [Braided Cable A] [p6] [Braided Cable B]

Now, on EVERY Round, EXCEPT the Cable Twisting Rounds, which are Rounds 5, 11, 17, 23, 29, 35, 41, and 47 (i.e. every 6th Round), you are doing the same thing:

[p6] [k2 (p2, k2) 3 times] [p6] [k2 (p2, k2) 3 times] [p6] [k2 (p2, k2) 3 times] [p6] [k2 (p2, k2) 3 times] [p6] [k2 (p2, k2) 3 times] [p6] [k2 (p2, k2) 3 times]

Notice that for the above, it doesn't matter if it's Cable A or B, the non-cable twisting rounds are all the same "k2, (p2, k2) 3 times".

Now, on Round 5 of the Cowl, the 1st, 3rd, and 5th Cables (the "A" cables) will do the Cable Twist like this:
Round 5 of the Braided Cable [RS – Cable Twist]: *Sl 4 sts onto cable needle and hold in front, k2, p the 2 p sts from cable needle, k the 2 sts from cable needle*, p2, rep from * to * once more.

BUT, the 2nd, 4th, and 6th Cables (the "B" cables) will do the Cable Twist like this:
Round 11 of the Braided Cable [Cable Twist]: K2, p2, sl 4 sts onto cable needle and hold in back, k2, p the 2 p sts from cable needle, k the 2 sts from cable needle, p2, k2.

On Round 11 of the Cowl, the A cables will do this:
Round 11 of the Braided Cable [Cable Twist]: K2, p2, sl 4 sts onto cable needle and hold in back, k2, p the 2 p sts from cable needle, k the 2 sts from cable needle, p2, k2.

While the B cables will do this:
Round 5 of the Braided Cable [RS – Cable Twist]: *Sl 4 sts onto cable needle and hold in front, k2, p the 2 p sts from cable needle, k the 2 sts from cable needle*, p2, rep from * to * once more.

Round 17 of the Cowl will be like Round 5 of the Cowl.

Round 23 of the Cowl will be like Round 11 of the Cowl, etc., etc.

I hope this helps clear up some confusion!  I really designed it this way so it would look really intricate, but not be hard to do.

Let me know if I need to explain more!

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